Paso’s esteemed vintners welcome newcomer Andy Neja of Cairjn Wine Cellars 

From the unique terroir of Paso Robles, up-and-coming winemakers continue to launch new brands, adding to the swelling ranks of San Luis Obispo County's 280-plus producers.

"It's certainly no surprise to us that Paso was named the No. 1 wine region in the U.S.," in USA Today's 10Best Readers' Choice Awards for 2023, according to Douglas Minnick, co-founder of the upcoming Garagiste Festival, showcasing Paso-area wineries producing less than 1,500 cases annually.

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• COURTESY PHOTO BY DEXTERITY MEDIA
• VISIONS OF VINES Originally from Orange County, winemaker Andy Neja and his wife, Michele, moved to Paso Robles in 2015, founded Cairjn Wine Cellars in 2020, and debuted their tasting room in 2023.

"This is our 12th year, and we are still discovering new wines and winemakers that are the embodiment of the variety and diversity of wines and styles here," Minnick said. "There is really no place else like it in the world."

One newcomer on the radar of wine enthusiasts—and who will be pouring at the Nov. 10 to 11 festival—is Andy Neja, co-owner of Cairjn Wine Cellars along with his wife, Michele, and partners Robert and Jackie Pierce.

Currently the associate winemaker at Paso's Caliza Winery, Neja debuted his own tasting room in August, creating a unique brand name that honors his familial roots and Paso's distinct geology.

A cairn is a stack of stones erected as a memorial or landmark, Neja explained. The variation Cairjn is a tribute to his family's farming legacy and to west Paso's limestone-rich terrain, where he sources his grapes and from which Caliza also derives its name, meaning limestone in Spanish.

Pronounced "karn," the silent "j" is a play on his middle name James.

"We wanted to have our own word ... and I prefer the way we say the word too," he added.

Neja's embrace of the land is his foremost consideration when crafting wine.

"It requires hard work and dedication to make wine, and at Cairjn we have a deep respect for the men and women who work tirelessly to bring each vintage to fruition," he said. "Ninety percent of wine is made in the vineyard, and Carl [Bowker] is a firm believer in that as well."

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• COURTESY PHOTO BY DEXTERITY MEDIA
• SERIOUS SYRAH Cairjn winemaker Andy Neja uses 100 percent fruit from Caliza Winery vineyards in his 2020 syrah. The variety, reflecting the Paso vineyard’s limestone soil and drastic diurnal temperature swings, produces intense flavors and flawless tannins, he said.

Bowker, Neja's mentor, is founder and head winemaker at Caliza, which has been producing award-winning wines for the past 15 years.

"Carl is a great winemaker, and it's been an honor and privilege to be able to work for a small, family-owned brand that makes 95 percent of their wine off their own estate," Neja said. "It really allows you to be in tune with the wines and be a true vigneron, making wine from the fruit that you grow yourself.

"Carl has a good palate for the wines we craft off the Caliza estate, and when you know where you want to be with your wines it allows you to be more in tune with the farming to achieve your goals."

Bowker said it's been a privilege to watch Neja develop into an accomplished winemaker during his nine years at Caliza.

"Having been at this for a good while now," he added, "I'd simply say the wine business is not easy, but with Andy's determination, I am confident he, along with his partners, will shine. Taking much of what he has learned at Caliza, I am proud to say Andy has crafted exceptional wines for his new ... venture. They are certainly worth seeking out."

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• COURTESY PHOTO BY DEXTERITY MEDIA
• PICK YOUR POISON Cairjn’s limited, 500-case annual release of premium reds, whites, and rosés can be explored via a classic tasting, elevated experience with the winemaker, or club membership. Club perks include free tastings for four and access to members-only events and wines.

Cairjn specializes in a wide range of wines, with its current tasting lineup featuring 2020 and 2021 vintages of albariño, rosé of grenache, grenache, syrah, and a 50/50 cabernet sauvignon-syrah blend.

Grapes are primarily sourced from Paso vineyards including Caliza, Yankowski, Alta Colina, Lopai, and Duas Terras, as well as Caelesta and Bovino in Templeton.

"I believe our whites should have amazing flavors but work with our growers to achieve lower alcohol in the finished wines along with great acid and minerality that is truly only achieved by farming the fruit properly and making the right pick decisions," Neja said. "The bigger red wines—syrah, cabernet sauvignon, etc.—will show some similarities because the winemaking style is similar. I do use a couple of different coopers for our oak program so there are some spice differences there."

Neja says he wants to build Cairjn "to a place that can support our family and will be something that I can pass down to our son, Keyes."

Michele said Keyes is 4 going on 18 and loves anything with wheels.

"We would love for him to take on a role at the winery, but as he grows time will tell. If his passion is wine, it will be fantastic, but we will happily support any avenue he travels down," she said.

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• COURTESY PHOTO BY DEXTERITY MEDIA
• WEST PASO PLAYGROUND The Neja family—Andy, Michele, and Keyes—source grapes for their Cairjn brand from local vineyards such as Caliza, a 28-acre oasis nestled in Paso’s Willow Creek District and planted primarily with Rhone varieties.

Michele, a hair stylist and owner of Salon Canvas, also assists at the winery.

"I love doing hair and have zero plans to completely give that up," she said adding that she hopes to eventually scale back and spend more time at the winery "so I can give my exhausted husband a break in the crazy times."

Presently, she manages the tasting room and prepares shipments for club members and is training to assume the role of assistant winemaker.

The Pierces provide Cairjn with bookkeeping, bottling equipment, and more via their companies Vinomotion and Premier Winery & Vineyard Services.

Both Cairjn and Caliza winemakers will be at the Garagiste Festival pouring their wares and chatting with tasters.

"We've been honored to have Carl and Caliza—a fantastic garagiste micro-winery making phenomenal wines—pour with us since our first Garagiste Festival in Paso back in 2011, and in just about every festival since," said Minnick, who founded the event along with fellow winemaker Stewart McLennan. "We're very proud to have played a small part in helping them grow over the last 12 years.

"And true to the garagiste spirit, Andy Neja and Cairjn have sprung from Caliza's fertile ground as they've grown." Δ

Flavor Writer Cherish Whyte predicts that Cairjn will make a lasting mark on the Paso winescape. Reach her at [email protected].