Park 1039's new partnership with chef Antonio Ramos brings Italy to SLO 

The prices are reasonable, the space is friendly and intimate, and the food and wine are exceptional at downtown San Luis Obispo's rekindled Park 1039.

Opened in summer 2021, briefly closed in October of this year, then relaunched in November under a new partnership with Chef Antonio's Italian Kitchen, Park 1039 currently hosts two weekly pop-up dinners with seatings at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m.

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• Photo By Cherish Whyte
• UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL Park 1039 owner Steven Goodale presents European-inspired wine pairings to complement weekly pop-up dinners at the intimate chef's counter. The 1,100-square-foot space seats 18 guests, with added capacity available for private buyouts.

Park 1039 owner Steven Goodale and chef Antonio Ramos III hope to ramp up to three nights per week in the new year, depending on customer demand.

Guests seated communally at a wraparound chef's counter are treated to a multi-course exploration of chef Ramos' extensive culinary repertoire, with wine pairings orchestrated by Goodale. That menu will change weekly.

"We are sharing authentic Italian cuisine inspired by our own travels in Italy and my cooking experience at the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco and New York City using seasonal produce and the finest Italian ingredients," said Ramos, who was raised in Santa Maria but moved to SLO to raise his family and ramp up his career. "I get my produce from farmers' markets, usually in SLO, Arroyo Grande, and Los Osos. I get my whole food products, like extra virgin olive oil, cheese, pistachios, flour, and nuts, from places like Jordano's or Greco and Sons."

The Le 5 Stagioni pasta fresca flour that he can order from Greco and Sons is the best flour he's used at any restaurant "by a landslide," he added.

Ramos, who established his pop-up business with his wife, Elise Raviv, in 2021 and also works at his brother's Central Coast catering firm Danny's Pizza Co., recently visited famed pasta institution La Salumeria di Bruno e Franco in Bologna as part of a month-long journey through Italy's culinary hot spots.

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• Photo Courtesy Of Chef Antonio's Italian Kitchen
• PASTA PAPARAZZI In Bologna, Italy, chef Antonio Ramos and his daughter, Ruth, visited the pasta laboratory at La Salumeria di Bruno e Franco—"the holy of holies for me," he said. "The lady on the right is in the pages of the Flour and Water book, which I received a few days after I started my cooking career (at the San Francisco restaurant of the same name) in 2014."

"I could see how my old boss in San Francisco, Thomas McNaughton, tried to make a carbon copy [of La Salumeria] at Flour and Water, where I used to work," Ramos said. "It was a very emotional moment for me."

On Dec. 16 and 18, Park 1039 customers will get the opportunity to experience Ramos' deep dive into Bologna cuisine with traditional recipes such as tortellini en brodo (in broth). Ramos rolls out his pasta just before guests arrive, so it's extra fresh, then regales guests with the inspiration for each week's lineup.

"[Ramos] lights up when talking about his regional Italian dinners, and I always feel inspired that he sources the best ingredients and makes everything from scratch," Goodale said. "His excitement is contagious, and you can taste the passion in his food."

Goodale pairs each of Ramos' dishes with carefully selected pours from Park's vast collection of imported and local wines. "The season and each dish's ingredients usually dictate the options," Goodale explained. "I then try to select one of the predominant flavors of a dish and decide whether to have the wine harmonize with that flavor or perhaps a less pronounced ingredient to bring balance. I also try to use the wine's acidity or lack thereof to complement the dish."

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• Photo By Cherish Whyte
• BRAISED PORK SHOULDER On Dec. 3, chef Antonio Ramos presented specialties from Lombardy, Italy. "This wealthy region, located along the Switzerland border, is known for its fields of corn, delicious cheeses, roasted meat with polenta, and amazing desserts," Ramos said.

A final consideration is capturing the inspiration for the menu—a joint tasting effort to "make sure we both agree that the [selected wines] elevate the experience for our guests," Goodale added.

"I would love to continue as a partnership with Steve, as he has so much more wine and front-of-house knowledge than I do," said Ramos, who had the short-lived pleasure of working alongside Park 1039's prior executive chef Marlon Rambaran while watching Goodale finesse customer engagement.

"I've always admired that about [Goodale], and I also just love his sense of detail when it comes down to things like plates and glassware, or high-quality food products and wines," he continued. "We mesh really well, and we actually make an awesome team. It feels like one of those special partnerships."

At Park 1039, Ramos and Goodale aim to pool their respective talents—gleaned from years of restaurant industry experience and associated travel—to escort guests on a short but sweet European epicurean vacation at a great price point.

"My cooking philosophy is to cook with love. Otherwise, no one's going to want it, and it's not going to taste good," Ramos said. "I grew up helping my mom in the kitchen, and when people come work for me, I remember that spark I had as a little kid, learning techniques from my mom and the love I felt for her. I'm also reminded of all the great friends and chefs I have learned from over the years."

After Ramos and Goodale present their Bologna-inspired pop-up dinner, the restaurant will close for Christmas, then reopen for New Year's with a soon-to-be-released menu.

The duo has high hopes for their new concept, as initial customer interest exceeded expectations. Guests are encouraged to book as soon as menus are released, usually the week prior.

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• Photo By Cherish Whyte
• DOLCE VARESE The Lombardian town of Varese lays claim to its popular polenta and almond cake. Chef Antonio Ramos coupled the decadent dessert with stracciatella ice cream—traced to nearby Bergamo—as the final course at Park 1039 on Dec. 3.

Ramos is eternally grateful to Goodale, who "decided to give me a chance and roll the dice on this venture," he said, "and I promised I wouldn't fail."

The first weekend of dinners at Park 1039 almost sold out, Ramos said, adding that it was intense, but his family helped out and the guests seemed happy with the service.

Goodale added that Ramos' excitement is contagious.

"You can taste the passion in his food," Goodale said. "I'm sure these qualities will continue to propel his success long into the future." Δ

Flavor Writer Cherish Whyte thoroughly enjoyed her culinary trip to Northern Italy via Park 1039. Reach her at [email protected].