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Originally from Greenville, South Carolina, with culinary stints in New York City and Denver, Rusty Quirk has honed her skills over the past several years as executive pastry chef at Michelin-star eatery Bell's in Los Alamos, and Michelin-recommended restaurants Ox + Anchor in San Luis Obispo and Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos.
In February, she celebrated her first year helming her own establishment—fulfilling her professional dream—and leading SLO's original coffeehouse Linnaea's Café into its 40th year of business.
"I'm inspired by [founder Linnaea Phillips'] legacy," said Rusty, who co-owns the restaurant along with husband Alex Quirk. "By all accounts, her commitment to community has had a lasting impact on San Luis Obispo. For many years she provided access to arts, culture, and conversation to so many people, and we are honored to continue that legacy.
"It's a place where people meet, share ideas, relax, and make memories together. It's not about food or coffee. It's about time spent in the space with friends and family, though throughout the years Linnaea's has always provided delicious, wholesome offerings, and we plan to keep that legacy going. Both Alex and I have been customers for years."
Phillips, 90, no longer frequents the restaurant, but she is thrilled that it continues to thrive since she first welcomed guests into her social oasis on Garden Street in 1984.
It has passed hands two other times—first to Linnaea's longtime manager Marianne Orme and her husband, David Arndt, then briefly to Kim and Eric Boege.
And no one has dared change the name, much to Phillips' joy.
"My father, Harold Churchward, was a self-educated botanist, a man of great desire," she said. "He named me after the great 18th century botanist Carl Linnaeus. So I have a history of wanting the Earth to be a better place than it always has been. It comes with me. That's who I am."
Linnaeus' most famous quote reads: "If a tree dies, plant another in its place."
Phillips acknowledged that business wasn't always rosy.
"People are always shifting their desires—what they like and don't like," she explained. "In the process, we all have to shift, and so we do."
The restaurant's latest incarnation maintains its original vegetarian focus, but under Rusty's leadership it has also become a hotbed of culinary experimentation.
"Our lunch menu and most of the breakfast menu is entirely new, and, with the exception of a handful of classics and old favorites, our pastry program has also evolved," she said. "Our team of bakers is constantly developing new fun pastries with a focus on vegan and gluten-free ... [while our] baristas have proven themselves in the highly competitive coffee market, both in creative offerings and skillful execution.
"I believe cooking should involve a little whimsy—it should be a source of joy for both the chef and for the guest. It should be healthy, filling, affordable, and, in my opinion, made using locally sourced produce."
For instance, she said, they've worked hard on their quiche recipe and recently started serving vegan pop tarts made with Chavez Farms organic strawberries. Other suppliers include Bautista Family Farms, Hayashi Fruit Stand, and Rocking Chair Farms.
The eatery is even stocked with local and imported beer and wine, the majority of which is natural.
The social aspect of Linnaea's is where Alex comes in. The Los Osos native is a composer and multi-instrumentalist music producer currently performing as nok nok. When not touring, he serves as barista and curator for the venue's visual and performing artists, including musicians, comedians, poets, and more.
However, he adds, the glue that holds the establishment together—and will keep guests coming back for more—is Rusty.
"She is undoubtedly the hardest-working individual I've ever had the privilege to know," he said.
She traded a Cal Poly degree in graphic communication for an apron and never looked back.
"Transitioning from a line cook to an acclaimed pastry chef and eventually to a successful restaurant owner within just six years is a testament to her relentless dedication and dozens if not hundreds of 90-hour work weeks," he said. "Considering her unwavering drive and exceptional work ethic, her ascent in the restaurant industry makes perfect sense."
Rusty also recently caught the eye of Michelle Barrera, owner of EnjoySLO community calendar and founder of At Her Table. Barrera nabbed Rusty—along with local chefs Maegen Loring, Brittney Yracheta, and Betsy Villagomez—to headline At Her Table's kickoff dinner event for its annual women's festival March 1 through 10.
"These chefs stand out to me for their versatility and experience in managing the demanding pace of high-volume restaurants and upscale catering situations, all while never compromising on the quality of their dishes," Barrera said.
"Rusty Quirk, in particular, caught my attention as the former pastry chef at Bell's in Los Alamos. When she took over ownership of Linnea's Cafe, I reached out to her to learn more about her vision for the café, which really aligned with the ethos of At Her Table," she said. "A few days later, I stopped by, and she was kind enough to gift me a loaf of bread. It was absolutely delicious—one of the top breads in the area that I've had."
As Rusty and other local female leaders navigate the demanding field of food and beverage, Phillips' advice is to go for it, regardless of background or formal training.
Previously an artist, seamstress, and librarian at Cuesta College for 25 years, cafe founder Phillips embraced the happy "accident" of founding Linnaea's.
"Do something off the cuff ... that's invigorating and experimental," she said. "Try it. See what it feels like. Does it feel comfortable to you? Does it involve something that you think other people might like?
"All our lives are accidents, and we make of the accident what we can, and do with it what we love, and enjoy the pleasures of bringing other people into that love of accident." Δ
Flavor Writer Cherish Whyte applauds Linnaea's legacy and Rusty's rising star. Reach her at [email protected].
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