The waters of Avila Beach became former professional surfer Van Curaza’s arena to learn and play 50 years ago.
After leading an adrenaline-fueled and often dangerous life, Curaza turned to the ocean again. But this time, to heal and give back.
“My own recovery through addiction was the start of it, because I realized that being of service and helping others was part of my own recovery,” he said. “Changing my mindset on what I need to do for me turned into, ‘What do I need to do for you?’ which gave me a sense of purpose and value to get out of self.”
Curaza wanted to serve the military population, especially combat veterans who had witnessed the horrors of war. In 2007, he met a group of vets who were recovering at rehabilitation facility Center for the Intrepid in San Antonio, Texas.
He took them surfing, deepened his bond with them, and realized that the sport was helping them just as it helped him. In 2009, he created Operation Surf—a nonprofit that helps military and veterans achieve wellness through curriculum-based programs and peer-to-peer support.
The longest program offered by Operation Surf spans three months. Called OS3 and kicking off in Avila Beach, the sessions are for active duty, active reservists, and honorably discharged veterans of the U.S. Armed Forces. It’s free of cost thanks to financial and in-kind donations from sponsors and well-wishers.
“They learn not only the basics of beginning surfing [but also] get to learn forecasting, tides, ocean conditions, ocean safety, safety period, giving back to others,” Curaza said. “Then, they are on a surfboard and [in] a wet suit at the end of it.”
There are two weeklong programs, too, with one meant for special operation forces and their spouses, and the other for the same group eligible for OS3 along with those with service-connected injuries and people who served in combat deployments and post-9/11.
One of the most significant aims of Operation Surf is to build a community of like-minded people. Past participants, Curaza said, often come back and help new people.
“It’s about holding yourself accountable and being accountable to other people, along with learning something new that is out of Mother Nature that is pushing you, testing you,” he said.
One such former student surfer is Operation Surf Program Manager John Hallett.
The medically retired Army captain found the surfing wellness group through a friend who did the six-month program in SLO County. Years after serving as a combat veteran in Iraq and Afghanistan, Hallett moved from Texas to the Central Coast and took part in both OS3 and the weeklong surfing course.
Surfing, Hallett said, is one of the hardest sports to learn.
“It certainly isn’t something you can pick up overnight,” he said. “Some people can probably pick it up really quick, and when I say quick, like a year. Other people take many years. I’ve gone eight or nine years now, and I still feel like I’m beginner to intermediate level.”
The challenge lies in not only discipling oneself to the physicality of the sport but also in going with the flow—literally.
“The ocean is very powerful, and it can be very humbling,” Hallett said. “There are subtle differences that the ocean throws at you at any given moment. One day it’s nice and peaceful. You come back six hours later, and it’s a whole different animal out there.”
Hallett went from participant to alumnus to full-time veteran manager by 2020. His role as program manager lets him work closely in the six-month program, and he connects with new and old Operation Surf members on Monthly Surf Days.
Every second Saturday of the month, Operation Surf hosts a meetup that’s open to both veterans and the public. The 8 a.m. meeting takes place at different locations. The exact venue is announced a week prior through email.
“Our program doesn’t only just help our veterans, it helps the people that are participating and volunteering in our program also,” Curaza said. “When you’re helping others to overcome and be better. It affects you, too.”
Is there a favorite beach for Operation Surf? The answer changes from surfer to surfer depending on where they enjoyed the waves the best, according to Curaza.
Usually, participants start at Avila Beach to familiarize themselves with ocean conditions. And a public access program for the Hollister Ranch was a gift to Operation Surf.
“We’ve been able to bring our warriors to surf to Hollister Ranch, which is private and very serene,” Curaza said.
Driven by the power of results, Curaza and his team also incorporated scientific research into the wellness of surfing.
Author Dr. Russell Crawford, who wrote The Impact of Ocean Therapy on Veterans with Posttraumatic Stress Disorder, conducted a study on Operation Surf’s programs. According to the group’s website, his research showed that 36 percent of participants showed a decrease in PTSD symptoms, 47 percent of them displayed lower depression levels, and 68 percent showed an increase in self-efficiency. Crawford’s complete quantitative study is available on the Operation Surf website.
“If you come in to surfing with a high expectation that you’re going to do this and that you’re most likely going to set yourself up for failure, because you’re most likely not going to achieve what your expectation is,” Curaza said. “What we do is we set people up for small, attainable goals. This is why a professional instructor and mentor is so important.”
This article appears in Get Outside – Winter/Spring 2025.