If you’ve been gravitating toward sparkling wines lately, you’re not alone. Bubbly is the fastest growing wine subcategory among American consumers, according to research firms Statista and Nielsen. Sales grew by more than 13 percent in 2021, and are expected to grow annually by 12 percent through 2025.
Consumers, especially in the United States, are increasingly grabbing sparkling wine for everyday imbibing, rather than shelving them for special occasions.
They are also opting for California’s more affordable labels, rather than France’s storied Champagne brands.
The state, which ranks fourth in worldwide wine production after Italy, France, and Spain, is giving their sparkling markets—prosecco, Champagne, and cava, respectively—a run for their money.
More than 300 California wineries produce 12 million cases of bubbly annually, with a large contingent based in San Luis Obispo County.
Of the area’s 70-plus producers, Laetitia Vineyard & Winery in Arroyo Grande enjoys storied status as one of the state’s sparkling trailblazers.
“We were founded in 1982 by winemakers from Champagne, so for 40 years, we’ve always used the same centuries-old technique they use called méthode champenoise,” said Eric Hickey, Laetitia’s senior winemaker and general manager. “It’s a long and multi-year process, but it’s worth it.”
Laetitia’s growth and reputation have paralleled Hickey’s ascension at the winery from a teenaged, part-time staffer to his current position overseeing the winery’s still and sparkling operations, which today produce 35,000 cases annually.
“I began working in the cellar of Maison Deutz—Laetitia’s original name—in 1988, when I was just 16, alongside my father (Dave Hickey), who oversaw the sparkling wines,” Hickey said.
After graduating high school, he joined the winery full time and never looked back.
From vintage to vintage, he furthered his knowledge of méthode champenoise, while also taking time to explore the Rhône, Burgundy, and Bordeaux regions of France as well as participating in an extension program through U.C. Davis.
Hickey explained that méthode champenoise boils down to two key phases—”the first fermentation, when we make basically still wine, and the second fermentation, which is done in the bottle and creates all the bubbles and toasty aromas and flavors.
“After this second fermentation, dead yeast builds up,” he continued. “We rotate the bottles to isolate the yeast in the neck of the bottle. We then place that neck in an ice bath, then pop the bottle and—boom—out shoots the frozen ice plug that has all that old yeast in it. That process is called disgorging.
“Because this process means we lose some wine, right after the ice plug pops, we sacrifice a few bottles and add some sparkling wine back into the bottle, along with a few grams of sugar to balance out the acidity.
“This addition is called dosage. Each winery/house has their own sugar/dosage program. But, to be clear, our wines are not sweet. Our wines are brut, which means dry.”
The fruits of the wine team’s efforts will be showcased at Bubble Fest, held outdoors at the winery on Aug. 20. The event will feature paired bites from local chef Heidi Hornikel and music from SLO-based band Moonshiner Collective.
“I’ll be offering several tastings, one which will actually explore the levels of dosage,” Hickey said. “So, we’ll taste several dosage examples from bone-dry to what’s known as demi-sec, which is a low level of sweetness.”
Hickey’s pours will be complemented by cuisine from Hornikel, co-owner of Flora and Fauna Fine Food in Arroyo Grande.
“Heidi is one of the most talented chefs on the Central Coast, and she knows what we are always telling people—that sparkling wine is actually one of the best food-pairing wines around, and goes with a wide array of foods,” Hickey said. “I’m super excited to see what she and her team will be putting together.”
Hornikel said she is likewise thrilled to partner with such a talented winemaker to showcase the “real food movement, or the farm-to-table concept, just as our grandparents did, with sustainability at its core.”
The catering firm sources from “our local farms and ranches that share this same belief by offering only the best and most natural product start to finish.”
Hornikel plans to dish up fried chicken with white macaroni and cheese, mushroom and brie tartine with Central Coast salad, oysters, grilled shrimp, and peach parfait.
Originally from Ohio and a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Hornikel spent 25 years as executive chef at a Bay Area caterer before founding Flora and Fauna eight years ago.
“My passion for cooking and feeding people only blossomed after moving to the Central Coast of California,” Hornikel said. “While I always utilized the best produce in San Francisco, being able to visit and talk with our hard-working farmers and winemakers opened up another avenue of inspiration.”
Hickey agrees that the Central Coast is a dream location for complex sparkling wines.
“What sets our sparkling apart are our vines here in our estate vineyard,” he explained. “Our soil, our proximity to the sea, and the age of these vines produce some amazingly delicious, unique, and nuanced wines.”
Open bubbly like a pro
Laetitia winemaker Eric Hickey says there are five steps to properly opening a bottle of sparkling wine:
1. Make sure your bottle is nice and chilled—to approximately 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Have a serviette or kitchen towel handy to wipe any condensation from the bottle and to cover the cork for added security during opening.
3. Remove the foil and wired cage from the cork.
4. Grasp the bottle by the base and ensure the cork is pointing away from you and anyone else.
5. Gently twist the base of the bottle counterclockwise while holding the cork firm.
When the cork pops, it should sound like a small hiss. On the rare occasion that the cork refuses to budge, run the neck of the bottle under hot running water for about 30 seconds. The heat will allow the glass to expand, and, in some cases, this is enough to loosen the cork to extract it. For safety, always keep your hand on the cork and ensure it’s pointed away from people. Δ
Flavor Writer Cherish Whyte’s patio will soon be popping with a Laetitia sparkler. Reach her at cwhyte@newtimesslo.com.
This article appears in Aug 11-21, 2022.