San Luis Obispo County’s oldest vineyard, tucked in the remote upper Arroyo Grande Valley near Lopez Lake, is a story of place, perseverance, and love.
Planted in 1880, abandoned for decades, then resurrected by Montecito native Bill Greenough in 1974, Saucelito Canyon Vineyard produces potent and unique zinfandel that embraces the canyon as much as its stewards.
“The main thing I’ve accomplished in my life was getting that [vineyard] back under production, starting the winery, and making wine,” Bill said.
It wasn’t easy. Bill purchased the property from the granddaughters of British immigrant Henry Ditmas, who planted the original vines. Native plants had overtaken the vineyard, but Bill saw potential. He cut the gnarled vines back, dug down to the root head, and trained new shoots—a grueling years-long process.
After resurrecting his beloved vineyard, he sought out a soulmate to complete the picture. He already had someone in mind.
“I was always captivated by Bill,” said Nancy Greenough, who married Bill in 1980.
“We both were captivated with each other from that first look across the room, but destiny was not to happen for 10 years or so.
“Bill was an amazing hard worker, a visionary of what he wanted to do at Saucelito. He restored the old vineyard single-handedly,” she said. “He knew it was a special place, something most people also feel when they visit. He loved the place and wanted to share it with someone, and I was/am the lucky someone.
“It started just as a cabin he built for himself, but when we were married and he carried me through the threshold, it was the best home ever.”
The grapes—3 acres from the original 1880 plot and another 7 acres of additional zinfandel plantings as well as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and malbec—also flourished in the remote canyon.
Paso Robles author Sean Weir wrote extensively about the historic dry-farmed vineyard in his 2015 memoir The Mad Crush, with an expanded second edition set for release later this year.
“It was humbling to consider the geologic violence that had been required to create such a scene,” he wrote. “Equally remarkable was the fact that it wasn’t uncommon to discover marine fossils percolating through the soil at Saucelito Canyon.
“The vineyard was situated at 800 feet above sea level and 18 miles from the beach. But once upon a time the land had been undersea. In some ways, the wine made here was millions of years in the making.”
Bill and Nancy released their first vintage under their own label in 1982, added children Margaret and Tom to the family fold, opened a tasting room closer to civilization in Edna Valley in 2004, and ratcheted up annual production to a modest 4,500 cases.
Tom assumed the head winemaker role in 2009 and is “doing a very, very good job,” Bill added. “It makes me very proud.”
Now producing around 20 different red and white wines from estate and locally sourced grapes, Tom is excited to carry on the Saucelito legacy.
“It’s extremely impressive how [Bill] had the vision and wherewithal to see an empty field … and turn it into the facility we have now,” Tom said. “We still aren’t on the power grid, but it’s come a long way from kerosene lanterns.
“The vineyard and the rest of the ranch are very special to me. I have spent my entire life out here and couldn’t imagine being anywhere else.”
Tom even recently discovered a new grape on the property.
“Counoise is an unusual grape,” Bill said. “It’s part of the 1880 vineyard. It survived by growing in the creek, so it got a lot of water. Tom took some cuttings and leaves and sent them off to Davis for identification.”
Tom’s slowly building up the counoise vineyard, so stay tuned for even more exciting wines.
Guests wanting to experience Saucelito’s liquid lineup can explore options at the Biddle Ranch Road tasting room, or even visit the storied vineyard itself at a special ticketed event on Aug. 3. The agenda includes sampling 2023 reserve reds from the barrel while enjoying the property’s iconic Hi Mountain view, captured by artist Sebastian Titus and gracing Saucelito’s labels.
On his 80th year of life and his vineyard’s 50th anniversary, Bill notes that the vines aren’t going anywhere.
“They’ll outlive me, that’s for sure,” he said.
In The Mad Crush, Weir wrote: “When Henry Ditmas left the canyon, divorced and perhaps driven out in 1886, he may have felt like a failure.
“If only he could witness his unlikely legacy. If only he could know that it wasn’t for naught, and that many lives have been changed by the very vines he planted, vines that are still producing wine more than 130 years later.”
When Tom first started working alongside his father, he wasn’t positive he’d be his successor, and Bill didn’t push.
“That was 18 years ago,” Tom said, “and I have no regrets.
“I also love the idea about keeping the property in the family for the next generation so my daughter, nieces, and nephew can also grow up out here and experience having so much space. Hopefully, between the four of them one will want to take over the business.”
In the meantime, Bill’s love story has a sequel, and he and Nancy are enjoying semi-retirement.
“Nancy and I are very pleased that Tom and Margaret are interested in continuing the vineyard and winery,” he said. “Margaret is a doctor, so she has little time, but she is very good at problem solving.
“When [we] started the winery … Nancy did the business side and I did the vineyard and winemaking. We had to work together on everything to make it a go. Hard to believe we have lasted 50 years.
“I hope they can continue on. Nancy and I have enjoyed the winery experience and satisfaction of building something from nothing, and I am sure Tom and Margaret feel the same way.
“But Saucelito’s future is in their hands, and it’s their future if they want it.” ∆
Flavor Writer Cherish Whyte was honored to get the grand tour of Saucelito Canyon by Bill Greenough himself. She’s still in awe at cwhyte@newtimesslo.com.
This article appears in Jul 25 – Aug 4, 2024.
Happy Birthday Bill and congratulations on fifty amazing years of World Class Zinfandel production as well as many other varietals. Best to you and Nancy and the family. Doug and Terrie